1. Written Batik
A kind of batik product whose technique in making its motif is painting manually with the touch of very high art and the color restraint (wax) is applied on the cloth by way similar to writing (using "canting").
Special features:
- Every batik cloth is unique, that is one design for one cloth.
- Because batik is made by hand, there are no single perfect motif. And this imperfectness makes written batik very human.
- The color and the motif is very similar on both sides of the cloth. Because both sides are painted using canting.
To write batik, we use a tool that is like a pen, this tool is usually called "canting", this tool is made from copper whose function as a pen and it has a handle from bamboo. The tip of the canting (eye of pen, usually called "cucuk (nozzle)") has an opening of various size, and the size is selected according to the need when painting, it will determine the size of motif. Several cantings are placed in a container called "nyamplung". This nyamplung may be filled with molten wax or dye (in the technique for making "batik colet"), it depends on the technique of making batik that will be used.
Process of making wax-written batik
The technique used in written batik is by applying molten wax through canting (as a pen). The process of making written batik is actually similar to stamped batik, the difference is on the motif. In printed batik the motif is very monotone (using the same motif repeatedly), whereas in written batik the motif is like a story that visualizes events. The way to make batik tulis is similar to painting. The maker takes molten wax from the "nyamplung" using canting. Then the nozzle of canting is blown with breath from mouth to open the opening, so the liquid membrane opens. The function of canting is like a pen that moves according to motif that is already made previously using pencil. This is followed by coloring process similar to coloring process for stamped batik.
2. Stamped Batik
Stamped batik began to be produced when demand for batik increased continually, so producers started effort to produce batik in large quantity in a relatively short time. So they made batik motif on metal plate to be used to apply wax on white cloth.
"Canting Cap" is a stamping tool made from copper plate, it's form is like a stamp but rather large. It is made from copper of 20cm x 20cm in size. It differs from canting whose form is like a writing tool.
Special features:
- The motif tends to be repetitive, there is not much detail.
- The color on one side differs from the color of the opposite side (back side), the color on the back side tends to be lighter.
- It is sold per piece of cloth with standard size.
- Unlike written batik, it is generally without "khetel" process that takes days.
Processes in producing Stamped Batik
- Cotton white cloth is placed on a table whose surface has been layered with a substance that is rather soft (so in the stamping process the wax is really stuck to the cloth).
- The wax is heated to its melting point and then the temperature of the molten wax is kept stable so the wax continues in liquid phase.
- Then the stamp is immersed partially into the wax, about 2 cm deep, so it can absorb the molten hot wax.
- Then the stamp is placed on the white cotton cloth and is pressed (is stamped on the cloth) with enough force.
- The liquid wax will stick to the pores of the cotton cloth and is absorbed into the cloth and will form a picture similar to the motif of stamp.
3. Color Written Batik (Colet)
The technique in written batik is by applying color wax (hot/molten) through canting directly to the cotton cloth, the size of canting depends on the detail of motif that will be painted. The process of producing color written batik (colet) is almost similar to painting on a canvas. The quality of batik colet is very much influenced by sense of art, creativity and accuracy (skill) of the batik painter, as well as by the color combination. The more intricate the detail of the picture made by the batik painter, the higher the artistic value and price of this batik colet (no wonder that you may find a batik cloth with an astonishing price).4. Printed Batik
Printed batik is also called textile with batik motif that is painted using machine. In the present times, batik is increasingly mass-produced because the Governor of Jakarta had decided batik as national garment.
Textile with batik motif is initially produced by local textile industries. But because of increasing demand, at last textile with batik motif is also produced by foreign manufacturers. This had raised concern because this probably will kill batik industry in Indonesia.
Special features:
- The motif is very detailed and neat
- The color is bright and attractive
- The color of the back side of the batik cloth is white with a little color leakage from the front side
- The price is very cheap
- Make a motif drawing on your computer, then print it using your computer printer on a plain cloth.
- Wash the cloth repeatedly
- Make the cloth dry by exposing it to wind, in a place that is not exposed directly to sun light.
The difference between written batik, stamped batik and printed batik
At a glance, the three kinds of batik cloth look alike, In order to prevent wrong choice when you buy garment product, then there are several features that should be noticed meticulously because the features differ between written batik, stamped batik and printed batik.
Written Batik Cloth:
Written batik cloth has special character i.e. it is not neat, both on its motif drawing and on its color, that is it often grows wider and there are a little overlapping/mixing with surrounding colors. The condition on the edge of the cloth can be the main indication. In written batik cloth, the color on the edge is not neat as consequence of the molten wax or repetitive coloring. The written batik becomes very precious just because of all imperfectness of the written batik that made by hand.
Stamped Batik Coth:
The motifs is limited by the repetitive pattern, can not appear as intricate as motifs on written batik.
On stamped batik cloth, motif with repeated pattern will appear perfectly similar, this is of course absolutely impossible on written batik cloth where every pattern is directly written by hand.
Printed Batik Cloth:
The appearance is even neater. The motifs in printed batik cloth appear neat and the repeated motif patterns will appear precisely similar.
History of Batik Culture in Yogyakarta and Surakarta (Solo)
The Islamic Kingdom Mataram was broken apart by Giyanti Agreement on Febriary 13, 1755 into two kingdoms: Ngayogyakarta Sultanate and Surakarta Sultanate. The Surakarta Sultanate was the precursor of Mataram Kingdom that has a more conventional culture compared with Ngayogyakarta Sultanate.
The Yogya batik usually has a style of black color with white background (white basic color), there are rules that must be obeyed in making Yogya batik, The Yogya Palace had special rules that dictated everything about their batik, that included, among others, style of design and stuffs.
In the design pathway for Solo batik, the path is from upper left to lower right, whereas for Yogyakarta batik the path is from upper right to lower left.
What is the difference between the two batik cloths?
For Surakarta Sultanate:
- The basic color of the cloth has "sogan" background and tends to have dark color. The color is brownish black.
- The "prodo" (the golden ornament) is only on the outline and as the "isen-isen" (fillings).
- The "prodo" gives a more calm and elegant impression
Ngayogyakarta Sultanate
- The basic color of the cloth has white background. If the cloth has dark color then the color tends to be bluish dark
- The "prodo" is found in the entire patterns and fillings.
- The impression of the prodo is more outstanding and manly.
Note:
Isen = Fillings i.e. pictures whose function is to fill and as a complementer for the main ornament.
Coastal Batik
Morning-Afternoon Batik Cloth
This batik arose when the Japanese occupied Indonesia, in those times it was very difficult to fulfill our need for food, garment and home. Because it is very difficult to find white cloth as the main stuff for making batik, so "Morning-Afternoon Cloth" arose where in a cloth there were two parts which each could be used for day time and night time respectively. Furthermore, the motif was also made very intricate with hundreds of difficult details and the colors used were also of various kinds. So to make such a batik cloth we need about one to two years.
Java-Hokokai Batik
Three-Country Batik
The price of this batik is sky high because it has very detail and very beautiful motif. This batik undergoes dyeing in three different geographic regions, that is, for red color in Lasem, blue color in Pekalongan, and "sogan" color (as background) in Solo.
